3 of the interview with
Château Haut Brion
is said that the success of Haut-Brion rests on its stability.
You are the third generation of Delmas in charge of Haut-Brion.
stability is significant when you are in the wine business.
The typicity of a wine comes from its ecosystem. Another part
is brought by the human touch, it is the style of the wine.
When there is a change at the winery: oenologist, team, owner,
the wine changes more or less. The succession of generations
with the same approach makes it possible to have a continuity
in the wine we make. As it is the same family, with the same
way of thinking, the choices always go in the same direction.
And you can find these choices in the wine. Indeed, we can
say that Haut-Brion is famous for its regularity.
Taking into account this stability, what is the importance
of the terroir in the success of Haut-Brion?
to talk about ecosystem rather than terroir. I include in
the ecosystem: the soil, the plant, the microclimate, the
relief and other factors. Then, it depends on the sensitivity
of the wine grower and wine maker. Either you respect the
ecosystem, or you make a wine without taking into account
the ecosystem. These are two different approaches. For us,
the soil is essential. We choose to respect the ecosystem.
What are the differences between Haut-Brion and the
other Premiers Grands Crus Classés. We use to say that
Haut-Brion is the most accessible and identifiable. Your opinion?
have a specific ecosystem for each of us. We all make different
wines, with different styles. Haut-Brion has the characteristic
to have a empyreumatic signature (range of organic aromas).
It means that you can find in the aromatic range: smoked,
tobacco, coffee aromas. It is a signature that is very specific
to Haut-Brion. It has always been there. Based on that, Haut-Brion
is maybe the most identifiable of the Premiers Crus. On the
other hand, three Premiers Crus are in Pauillac. They are
easier to identify because they come from the same appellation.
You are also in charge of La Mission Haut-Brion. The
two Château are separated by a road. In addition to
the classification, what are the differences between the two
is not exactly the same. The soil of the Mission is a little
bit richer. We must control the strength of the plant and
manage the density of the plantation. Just for your information,
the ratio of vines per hectare is 10 000 vines at the Mission
for 8 000 at Haut-Brion. The first layer of the soil is a
mix of sand and gravels. The second layer is made of clay.
In fact it changes according to each part of the vineyard.
The grapes are also a little bit different. With the same
team, with almost the same winery, we don't make the same
wine. This is the magic of wine making.
Jean Philippe Delmas, Château Haut-Brion
to the beginning of the interview with Jean-Philippe
Delmas, Chateau Haut-Brion
this Haut-Brion poster