6 of the interview with
have developed a theory which we can call as "technology
wine" in order to reform the AOC
regulation and to stress more on the grape variety than on
the appellation, can you explain that further?
opinion, the question is not to segment the AOC wines between
terroir wines and technological
wines. On the other hand, I cannot admit that the whole AOC
wines which count for more of 60 % of the production in France
are all terroir and appellation wines. Some of them are sold
less than 3 euros the bottle! We have in France a reversed
pyramid we must reconsider.
we have some great AOC wines. There are some great terroir
wines. There are also some simpler appellation wines which
can be delicious. They represent more the style of a wine
region than the personality of the soil. Of course, I am aware
that some wine growers and owners of these simpler appellations
produce fantastic terroir wines. But it is not the case all
the time, everywhere. It is fundamental to admit that in order
to move forward and eventually recognize that the rules of
the game cannot be exactly the same between all appellations
of a same region. I dream of a segmentation inside the AOC
system, rather than reversing some AOC wines into Vins
de Pays. It does not correspond in any way, at least in
Burgundy, to our culture and our desire.
What do you think of the current situation of the
wine in France?
economic situation is difficult because we are facing a particularly
severe crisis. Crises happen every 10 years in the wine business.
We always recovered because they were related only to the
economic situation. This time, the crisis is more serious
because it is at the same time coming from the economic situation
because of the dollar, the economy in general and the war
in Iraq. But the problem is that the crisis has also a structural
background because of the very significant fall of wine consumption
in France, of the strongest international competition which
takes market shares. France remains of course a reference
in terms of wine, even if it is attacked on all markets. Basic
thoughts have already started. Probably later than expected.
Under the efforts of René Renou, we must find answers
as soon as possible. Otherwise we will have no choice but
to pull off vines in France. Because of its size, Burgundy
is probably less affected than other French wine regions but
we also have some problems. The rewriting of the appellation
laws recommended by President Renou must allow us to find
some answers. I am very confident. If we are able to be truly
honest and to make a lucid and transparent analysis of the
situation we will find answers. The parceling out of the French
vineyard does not help us because everyone develop great theories,
supporting its personal interests and forgetting the collective
interest of everybody in the business.
to the beginning of the interview with