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Page 6 of the interview with

Pierre-Henry Gagey
Louis Jadot

You have developed a theory which we can call as "technology wine" in order to reform the AOC regulation and to stress more on the grape variety than on the appellation, can you explain that further?

In my opinion, the question is not to segment the AOC wines between terroir wines and technological wines. On the other hand, I cannot admit that the whole AOC wines which count for more of 60 % of the production in France are all terroir and appellation wines. Some of them are sold less than 3 euros the bottle! We have in France a reversed pyramid we must reconsider.

Of course, we have some great AOC wines. There are some great terroir wines. There are also some simpler appellation wines which can be delicious. They represent more the style of a wine region than the personality of the soil. Of course, I am aware that some wine growers and owners of these simpler appellations produce fantastic terroir wines. But it is not the case all the time, everywhere. It is fundamental to admit that in order to move forward and eventually recognize that the rules of the game cannot be exactly the same between all appellations of a same region. I dream of a segmentation inside the AOC system, rather than reversing some AOC wines into Vins de Pays. It does not correspond in any way, at least in Burgundy, to our culture and our desire.

What do you think of the current situation of the wine in France?

The current economic situation is difficult because we are facing a particularly severe crisis. Crises happen every 10 years in the wine business. We always recovered because they were related only to the economic situation. This time, the crisis is more serious because it is at the same time coming from the economic situation because of the dollar, the economy in general and the war in Iraq. But the problem is that the crisis has also a structural background because of the very significant fall of wine consumption in France, of the strongest international competition which takes market shares. France remains of course a reference in terms of wine, even if it is attacked on all markets. Basic thoughts have already started. Probably later than expected. Under the efforts of René Renou, we must find answers as soon as possible. Otherwise we will have no choice but to pull off vines in France. Because of its size, Burgundy is probably less affected than other French wine regions but we also have some problems. The rewriting of the appellation laws recommended by President Renou must allow us to find some answers. I am very confident. If we are able to be truly honest and to make a lucid and transparent analysis of the situation we will find answers. The parceling out of the French vineyard does not help us because everyone develop great theories, supporting its personal interests and forgetting the collective interest of everybody in the business.

Louis Jadot:

Go back to the beginning of the interview with
Pierre-Henry Gagey
Louis Jadot





What does AOC mean?
What does terroir mean?




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